Eleven knots, step by step
Knots
Every knot used in the rigs and tackle pages, drawn one step at a time. Start with the uni knot and the Palomar. Between them they tie most of a rig.
Four rules for every knot
- Wet it before you pull it. Spit or seawater stops friction heat, which weakens mono.
- Pull slowly and firmly. A snatched knot seats badly. Steady pressure lets the turns bed down neatly.
- Trim to about 3mm. Too close and it can creep undone. Too long and it catches weed and rod rings.
- Test every knot. Give it a hard pull before it goes in the rig wallet. Better it fails at home than on a fish.
Reading the drawings
Main line, the part that goes to the reel The end you're working with A second line, such as a leader Arrow showing which way to move or pullWhich knot do I need?
| Mono to a swivel, hook or lead link | Uni knot or tucked half-blood |
| Braid to a swivel, hook or lure | Palomar |
| Drop-shot hook | Palomar with a long end |
| Fixed loop at the end of a line | Figure-of-eight loop |
| Loop in the middle of a line | Dropper loop |
| Setting float depth | Float stop knot |
| Mono main line to mono shock leader | Shock leader knot or uni-to-uni |
| Braid to a mono or fluoro leader | FG knot best; Albright is easier |
| Light line to a much heavier leader | Albright |
| Mono 80lb and heavier | Crimped loop |
Uni knot
Also called: Grinner
Mono to swivels, hooks and lead links. The knot you'll tie most.
Push about 15cm of line through the eye. Lay the end back alongside the main line.
Bring the end back toward the eye, making a loop that lies over both lines.
Pass the end through the loop and round both lines 5–6 times, working toward the eye.
Wet it, pull the end to close the coils, then pull the main line so the knot slides to the eye. Trim to 3mm.
Get it right
- Count your turns: 5–6 for mono up to 30lb, 4 for heavier.
- If the coils cross over each other, cut it off and retie.
Tucked half-blood
Also called: Improved clinch
The old favourite for hooks and swivels on lighter mono.
Push about 15cm through the eye.
Twist the end round the main line 5–6 times.
Push the end through the small loop by the eye, then back out through the big loop you just made. That's the tuck.
Wet it and pull steadily on the main line. The coils bed down into a neat barrel. Trim to 3mm.
Get it right
- Use fewer turns (4) on line over 30lb, or it won't seat.
- Forgetting the tuck is the classic mistake. The knot will slip.
Palomar
Hooks and swivels on braid, where most knots slip. Also forms the drop-shot hook.
Double about 15cm of line into a loop and push the loop through the hook eye.
Tie a loose overhand knot with the doubled line. Leave the hook hanging in the loop.
Pass the whole hook through the loop.
Wet it and pull the main line and the end together to close the knot on the eye. Trim. For a drop-shot, leave the end long.
Get it right
- The loop must be big enough to pass the whole hook or lure through.
- For a drop-shot, leave a 35–45cm end and pass it back through the eye from the point side.
Figure-of-eight loop
A strong fixed loop in the end of a line, for loop-to-loop connections.
Fold 20cm of the end back on itself to make a doubled length.
Bring the doubled end round in a full turn, crossing back over itself to make a small loop.
Push the doubled end down through that small loop. You'll see a figure 8.
Wet it, pull the loop against both lines to tighten, and trim the end.
Get it right
- Make sure both strands lie side by side and don't cross before you tighten.
- Leave a 5mm end. Loops can creep under load.
Dropper loop
Also called: Blood loop
A loop that stands out from the middle of a line, for snoods without swivels.
Make a loop in the line where you want the dropper.
Take one side of the loop and twist it round the other 5–7 times. The twists form either side of a gap in the middle.
Push the top of the loop down through the gap in the middle.
Hold the loop (a pencil through it helps), wet it and pull both ends. The loop stands out from the line.
Get it right
- Keep the twists even on both sides of the gap.
- Pull slowly, or the loop twists round itself.
Float stop knot
Also called: Sliding stop
Sets the depth on a sliding float. It slides when you push it, but holds against the float.
Lay 15cm of spare mono or power gum alongside the main line and loop it back.
Wrap the end through the loop and round the main line 4–5 times.
Pull both ends tight and trim to 1cm. Slide the knot along the line to set your depth.
Get it right
- Leave the ends about 1cm long so they fold flat through the rod rings.
- Wet it before you slide it, or it'll burn the main line.
Uni-to-uni
Also called: Double uni
Joins two lines: mono to mono, or braid to a mono or fluoro leader.
Overlap the two lines by about 20cm, ends pointing opposite ways.
With the leader end, tie a uni knot round the main line: loop it, then 4–5 turns through the loop.
Tie a second uni with the main line's end round the leader. Use 8–10 turns if the main line is braid.
Wet both, then pull the standing lines apart so the two knots slide together. Trim both ends.
Get it right
- Braid needs more turns: 8–10 against 4–5 for the mono side.
- Trim close. Long ends catch the rod rings on the cast.
Shock leader knot
Also called: Stopper leader knot
The beach caster's join for a heavy mono leader to lighter mono main line. A small, slim knot that flies through the rings.
Tie a loose overhand knot near the end of the shock leader.
Pass the main line through the overhand knot, alongside the leader.
Pull the overhand knot tight. Wrap the main line end round the leader 5–6 times, then tuck it back between the knot and the first wrap.
Wet it and pull slowly. The wraps bed down against the overhand, which acts as a stopper. Trim both ends close.
Get it right
- Tape the knot to the reel spool when you wind on, so it sits off to one side.
- Retie it every few sessions. It takes the full force of every cast.
Albright
Joins lines of very different thickness: braid or light mono to a heavy leader. Easier than the FG.
Fold 5cm of the heavier leader into a U. Push the lighter main line through the U.
Wrap the main line back over both legs of the U, 8–10 turns, working toward the bend.
Push the end back out through the U, on the same side it went in.
Wet it, pull the main line and leader slowly so the wraps slide to the bend without crossing. Trim.
Get it right
- Hold the wraps with your thumb as you go so they don't unravel.
- Add a uni knot with the main line end behind the Albright for extra security on braid.
FG knot
The slimmest braid-to-leader join. It casts smoothly and holds well. Practise at home first.
Keep the braid under tension (rod and reel, or round your hand). Lay the leader across it.
Weave the braid round the leader, alternating over and under, for about 20 wraps.
Lock it with 6 half hitches round both lines, trim the leader end, then add 3 more half hitches round the braid only.
Wet it and pull both lines hard. The wraps should grip the leader and not slide.
Get it right
- The braid must stay tight throughout. Slack wraps mean a failed knot.
- If it slides when you test it, add more wraps next time.
Crimped loop
Strictly not a knot
For mono heavier than about 80lb, where knots are bulky and weaken the line.
Thread two crimps onto the heavy mono.
Pass the end through the hook eye or swivel and back through both crimps, leaving a small loop.
Close each crimp in the matching slot of the crimping pliers. Leave 3mm of end showing, and give it a hard test pull.
Get it right
- Match crimp size to line diameter. Too big slips, too small cuts.
- Use double crimps on traces for big fish.
Practise at home with a swivel and a length of old line until you can tie each knot without looking. Then practise again with cold, wet hands and a head torch, because that's how you'll tie them on the beach.